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By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

I had a feeling that the new Gewurztraminers from Red Newt Cellars would illicit a response from a few readers. I just knew that some people would have a negative reaction to the prices, regardless of quality.

The price of New York wines -- the truths and the myths -- is another topic for another time (and soon) though. Today, I want to tell you a bit about the other single-vineyard Gewurztraminer made in 2007 by Dave Whiting at Red Newt.

After much deliberating, I can now say that Red Newt Cellars 2008 Curry Creek Vineyard Gewurztraminer ($41) is my favorite of the two wines, maybe because it's a bit more "classic Gewurztraminer."

Compared to its sister wine, this is definitely the big brother. The nose, while still a bit taut, is spicy, with ginger, ripe pear and minerals.

The palate brings big spice, lychee and mineral flavors along with more pear and apple ripeness. The mid-palate is slightly juicy but the acidity is big and crunchy, pointing to potential longevity. The finish is long and dry with orange pith bitterness.

This is a real Gewurztraminer-lover's Gewurztraminer. I happen to be one and I really enjoyed this one -- especially on day two when the nose was a bit more expressive.

Producer: Red Newt Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $41
Rating: (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive ) 

(Ratings Guide)

Over the last couple years, Brooklyn Uncorked has become the premier Long Island wine tasting event. There are very few opportunities to taste so many Long Island wines in one place.

This year, the list of Long Island wineries pouring includes Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard, Bedell Cellars/Corey Creek Vineyards, Bouké, Bridge Vineyards, Brooklyn Oeneology, Castello di Borghese, Channing Daughters Winery, Clovis Point, Diliberto Winery, Grapes of Roth, Harbes Farm and Vineyards, Lieb Cellars, Long Island Merlot Alliance, Macari Vineyards, The Old Field, Osprey's Dominion Vineyards, Palmer Vineyards, Raphael, Roanoke Vineyards, Sherwood House Vineyards, Shinn Estate Vineyards, Sparkling Pointe, Waters Crest Winery and Wölffer Estate.

And this year's food and other beverages will be provided by vendors and restaurants like Amy's Cookies, Bodum, Buttermilk Channel, DiPalo's, Fizzy Lizzy, Get Fresh, iCi, North Fork Potato Chips, NuNu Chocolates, Palo Santo, Plowshares Coffee, Rick's Picks, SerendipiTea, Stonehome Wine Bar, The Farm on Adderley, The Smoke Joint, Vere Chocolate, Wine Cellar Sorbets

Reidel will provide glassware. Collaborating wine shops include Slope Cellars, Blanc & Rouge Wine, Heights Chateau, Red, White, and Bubbly, Picada y Vino, and SIP Non-Profits partners include: City Harvest, Slow Food USA, and Brooklyn Food Plan

I'll be attending again this year (it's a lot of fun). So, come sample the bounty that lurks in your own backyard. Brooklyn Uncorked runs from 4 to 8 p.m. Members of the public can sample during the 4-hour event for $40.

Half price tickets are available for those who purchase a subscription to Edible Brooklyn. Visit www.brownpapertickets.com or www.ediblebrooklyn.net for tickets.

Fire damage at Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars (Photo by Mike Linehan)

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

I just got an email telling me that there was a fire at Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars today that severely damaged the winery and/or the tasting room.

I don't know any details yet, but hopefully some of the people who read this blog and offer some. Hopefully no one was hurt.

UPDATE: David Spengler, tasting room manager at Ravines Wine Cellars just sent me a message on Facebook telling me:

"About 8:45pm this evening Dr Frank's new tasting room was engulfed in flames. Three fire companies and and couple on standby, but it was totally lost and they (Hammondsport FD) kept it contained to the one building. I was in the parking lot for about a hour watching before getting back down town to let Morgan know about it. Tomorrow in the daylight we'll see what it's left and I'll let ya know about the investigation of what started it. I live right on the village square, so I'm right smack dab in the center of phone calls and listen to the scanner.

We have a Winemaker's dinner thursday at the Village tavern and we will have Joe Serphilips and the two younger winemaker's (Antoine & Jonathan) from DrFranks there so we'll know more later."

From the sounds of it, only the new tasting pavilion was damaged. The tasting room will remain open as they investigate this fire.

UPDATE 2: Mike Linehan from the Yates County Chamber of Commerce (KeukaNY.com) sent the picture you can see above. He also appeared on 13 WHAM news this morning with Evan. Watch the video.

 By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

If you're in the wine industry and you're not on Twitter yet, I won't call you an idiot, but you're really missing out. There are great discussions going on almost every day and by getting involved in them, you can not only learn from other people in the industry but also connect with your customers in a whole new way.

Sure, there is plenty of inane, useless banter too, but it's pretty easy to filter that out once you get your feet wet and understand the technology and the people.

Anyway, yesterday there was an interesting discussion amongst bloggers and some of the wine PR folks about expectations and responsibilities in the "wine samples" game. What should wineries (or PR people representing those wineries) expect when they send wines to a writer or blogger?

Some don't seem to have any expectations, which is probably the best way to go, given how some reviewers conduct themselves. Others, and I'm speaking from experience here, expect a published review -- and quickly.

I can only speak for myself, but here is what I feel is appropriate, what I owe to wineries that send me wine to review. When I accept a sample from someone, I never agree to publish a review, or that it will be a positive one, but I am agreeing to:

1. Taste the wine in a professional, controlled way. That means I won't guzzle it and not take any notes.
2. Give the winery feedback if they ask, even if I don't publish a formal review here on LENNDEVOURS or in one of my other outlets.

The first item is a given, or at least I assume that it is, but several of the PR folks and bloggers seemed (pleasantly surprised) that I consider the second item a given as well.

I think of it this way: Yes, the winery wants me to write about its wines, but I also assume that they want to know what I think. I think it's professional to offer that feedback if they ask.

I know that most "professional" critics don't agree (or act that way) but I think that's just lazy. It doesn't take me long to type up my raw, unedited notes when a winery emails me wanting to know what I thought of their wine.

This all said, I have two questions:

• Wineries, what do you expect when you send out samples? Do you expect something different from a blogger than you do from Parker or WS?
• Bloggers, do you feel any obligations at all when you receive samples?

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

Frederick Frank, the president of Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, said this morning that the loss of a spill-over tasting room to fire does not change day-to-day business.

"We're open today for tastings. We're bottling wine today. Nothing has changed. We'll be taking part as planned in the wine trail event this weekend," Frank explained.

He does not know the cause of the massive fire that destroyed the new tasting room building, but he praised the firefighters from Hammondsport and other departments who responded quickly last night. "They did outstanding work, and we can't say enough how much we appreciate it. They made sure the fire was contained. It only affected one building, and there was no other damage."

Frank said he was frustrated by what he called "numerous erroneous reports" in regional media "that said the entire winery had burned down. It hasn't. It's important to make sure the truth is reported, and the truth is that we're going to be fine. We're excited to see visitors to our tasting rooms today, just as we always are."

By Bryan Calandrelli, Niagara Correspondent

With only twelve wineries in the Niagara region, news just doesn’t happen everyday. During most of the winter, a few wineries may only open on weekends, or in one case, one weekend out of the month. So now that winter is loosening its grip, some good news has surfaced with the melting snow.

The 2009 Finger Lakes International Competition was good to several Niagara wineries, and there was one standout result. Leonard Oakes Estate Winery was awarded a double gold medal for its 2007 Frontenac. If you haven’t heard of this grape, don’t worry, it’s not on Wine Spectator’s radar yet. Bred by the University of Minnesota, this extremely cold hardy grape is meant for the climate of Lambeau Field or other frozen tundras.

Leonard Oakes does have small plantings of red vinifera and they are a winery to watch as their young winemaker, Jonathan Oakes, begins to get experience with the family's grapes. I am looking forward to their 2007 Meritage as well as tasting this Frontenac in my next visit to our easternmost winery on the trail.

In other goings-on, the official Niagara Wine Trail guide has added two more wineries to the map, both of which are listed as coming in 2009: Black Willow Winery and Victorianbourg Estate Winery have targeted late this year to open their doors to the public. Both are north of the Escarpment and the latter is situated right off of Route 18, Lake Road, a short walk from Lake Ontario. Victorianbourg has planted mostly vinifera including the heartbreak grape, pinot noir. In the near future we will be able to compare pinot from the clay-heavy soils of the escarpment to the lighter gravel soil near the lakeshore.

Freedom Run Winery, where I get to help with all sorts of stuff, has released three estate selections last week. These are the first such estate-grown vinifera wines released to the public from the winery. Their 2008 Riesling and naked Chardonnay are still adjusting to the bottle but they are already showing potential. Their estate Pinot Noir from 2007 has been showing well for months and has finally seen the light of day in the tasting room.

In fact, this year should see plenty of estate-grown wines in local tasting rooms. Arrowhead Spring, Freedom Run, Spring Lake, Victorianbourg, and hopefully a couple others will release their first wines from estate vineyards. With plenty of area wineries sending samples to wine magazines and competitions these days, I’m sure I’ll be reporting on some scores and medals again soon.

On Friday, May 8, Bedell Cellars and the Friends of the Sisson Family, will host a fundraiser from 6-9 p.m.

From the event website:

This event will be a celebration of Ben Sisson's life. It will be an opportunity to share your favorite stories with friends and colleagues. Wine and appetizers will be served at the beautiful Bedell Cellars tasting room, and a Silent Auction will be held with a variety of items donated for the cause.

Nena, Jackson and I will be going and I'd encourage every person who reads this blog to attend. There will probably be some amazing auction lots that any Long Island wine lover would want to bid on.

You can buy tickets (or donate if you can't attend) on the event website.

Peconic Bay Winery's Jim Silver with his favorite wine website in the background.

Jim Silver’s wine career began a little over 20 years ago. Over the course of those two decades, he's held just about ever wine-related job (except winemaker and vineyard manager) that you can think of. He's been wine buyer for a large retailer in Delaware and sommelier at the Four Seasons Hotel in Philadelphia. He's also worked in the New York region representing Rémy Amerique, Grupo Codorniu and the Hess Collection.

Here on Long Island Jim has served as the National Sales Director for Pindar Vineyards before becoming Senior Vice President of Bedell Cellars. Most recently, he's become the General Manager of the Peconic Bay Winery.

With all of that varied experience, he brings a unique perspective to the region and I'm sure he's going to do some interesting things at Peconic Bay. But for today, he answers our LENNDEVOURS Q&A questions:

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
I started enjoying wine while attending restaurant school in Philadelphia in 1988. I can recall very well drinking a lot of Hungarian red wines that were $2.99 a bottle at the time, I forget the name of them though – one was a cab and one was a merlot.

A more specific memory was the purchase of a 1967 Chateau Gruaud-Larose St. Emilion. Wow, it was tough to justify the super high price of $9.99 in the Pennsylvania state store, especially for a poor student like me, but I really wanted to experience a well-aged Bordeaux. I even scribbled my tasting notes into the inside cover of Alexis Lichine’s Wine Encyclopedia. (It was definitely not a great vintage, and tasted a bit like ashes, but it was my first somewhat intellectual wine experience.)

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
In 1989 I was studying in France as part of my culinary training. We made a visit to the Clos de Vougeot in the Cote d’Or. I don’t recall all of the circumstances perfectly, but to this day just the taste of a Burgundy, simple or great, really makes my heart beat faster. Those pinots are the oldest and truest wine love I have. I have similar feelings for Chablis, which I visited on the same trip.

You could say I discovered “terrior” there, and it’s guided me since, in all facets of my life and career.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
Peconic Bay Winery’s Steel Fermented Chardonnay is great wine. It is reminiscent of Cru Chablis, with really well balanced acidity and terrific concentration. It is very aromatic and very long. In fact, the aromas are very distinct – as it seems the clone of this chardonnay here gives a particular musqué smell, sort of along the sauvignon blanc line. It’s unique to this vineyard. Plus, lately I’ve found markedly less interest in oaky flavors. I’m interested in discovering the natural terrior of a wine, not in masking it – Greg Gove is such a masterful winemaker in that sense. Even our La Barrique wine is only very lightly oaky.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Long Island wine community?
I am surprised by the unrecognized potential here on LI. Time and again, local wineries are producing classic wines, sometimes of stunning quality, and yet so often you can come across something so positively boring you wonder if that winemaker wasn’t asleep when it was bottled.

I spent many years representing French, Italian, and Californian producers who made fine wines, but none of them would ever have the opportunity to improve as dramatically as Long Island does. The sky is the limit here. The conscientious and thoughtful winemaker here has the potential to do almost anything given the right conditions. (We really are like Napa in the 60s or Sonoma in the 70s.) The time is right for the rise of the East Coast vineyard, especially Long Island. What is surprising is that I didn’t know it sooner. What’s equally surprising is how many people still don’t know it.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
Take 3 oz. of Michter’s Straight Rye, 1 oz. Noilly Prat Sweet Vermouth, three shakes of Angostura bitters, a maraschino cherry, and shake on ice very hard. Then pour it into an up-glass. It should be brown in color with a light foam on the top. That is the only real cocktail. A Manhattan.

Scotch is nice too sometimes. Almost always it’s going to be wine though, and it’s usually a Cotes-du-Rhone. Affordable and delicious. I still have beer in my fridge from Thanksgiving 2007.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy?
I’m with Chris Stamp on this one. Whoever thought up chocolate and red wine is a little cuckoo. But I am also of the opinion that food and wine pairing in general is somewhat overstated too. There are plenty of “matches” that work well, like Sauternes and Roquefort, Chablis and Oysters, merlot and lamb loin, but 99.9% of good wine matches are good because they tend not to interfere with each other.

A pairing is complimentary when they do no damage to each other. That’s really the key. As soon as one of them (the dish or the wine) proves dominant, the match is lost. The best idea is to chose simple wines with complex foods, and complex wines with simple foods. And don’t forget that many wines can be obliterated by certain foods, (lots of cheeses comes to mind, so does artichoke) – the pitfalls do exist. Magical wine pairings don’t occur in a vacuum, they include the atmosphere of the room, the attitude of the diners, the romance of the event, and the anticipation of enjoyment as much as anything else.

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
That would be me, my wife, and a random selection of good friends I’ve made in this industry over the last 20 years. Add grilled quails, foie gras, and some caviar on blini, three bottles of Krug, six or seven bottles of Richebourg and Echezeaux and I’d say that would be the ultimate fantasy drinking experience.

Some of my real-life wine-drinking experiences over the years have been so decadent and fascinating, you might not believe me if I told you. Some wines I enjoyed regularly 20 years ago, cost more than my car today, but that’s part of what’s so delightful about this business. I couldn’t imagine being in any other business but this one. How lucky is that?

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

When I heard that Red Newt Wine Cellars was releasing two single-vineyard Gewurztraminers, I was intrigued. Did the two vineyards really warrant separate bottlings, or was it a marketing ploy along the lines of "reserve" labels?

And when I heard they were price at $36 and $42, I'll admit that I even thought to myself "Have they lost their minds?"

Now that I've tasted them, I can say definitively that yes, the two vineyards (in 2007 anyway) led to distinct wines worthy of single-vineyard labeling.

Are the prices exorbitant? That's really up to you, but I can tell you this: these are expressive, distinctive wines that deserve your attention and show what is possible in the Finger Lakes with the 'other' aromatic white grape. You know, the one that isn't riesling.

The nose on this Red Newt Cellars 2007 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Gewurztraminer ($36), made with fruit from Jim Hazlitt's Sawmill Creek Vineyard, is an attractive melange of juicy ripe pears, dried orange peel, kiwi and white flowers with subtle spice and lychee notes in the background.

Elegant, mouthwatering pear and kiwi fruit flavors dominate the medium-bodied palate, with candied ginger, spice and floral notes bringing nuance. This wine's balance, brought about by tongue-tingling acidity, and it's long orange-peel inflected finish are what really helps it stand out.

Check back next week for my review of Red Newt Cellars' 2007 Curry Creek Vineyards Gewurztraminer.

Producer: Red Newt Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Price: $36
Rating: (4 out of 5 | Delicious, Distinctive ) 

(Ratings Guide)

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday #56. I know I say it almost every month, but it is still fascinating to me that the virtual wine tasting I founded 56 months ago is still going strong.

This month, we're hosted by John, who is better known as The Corkdork. The theme is Fine Kosher Wines, something that I knew little about (and still probably don't, given the small sampling that I did.)

Before this edition of WBW, I actually had never knowingly tasted a Kosher wine. I guess it's possible that I had some Manischewitz in college or something, but I don't think so. In that sense, I was going into this without any of the negative bias that some seem to have for the category.

Nena and I tasted through six different Kosher wines (5 were "Kosher for Passover" which is a different sub-category). Rather than offer full reviews on everything, I'll give you a basic rundown.

The two chardonnays showed way more oak than I like. The 2006 Yarden was remarkable only in how utterly unremarkable it was. Any cheap chardonnay on the market could stand it -- except for that Kosher angle. The 2006 Recanati was also overoaked for my tastes, but had great acidity and seemed to have more elegance and better fruit. I'd be curious to taste a version with the oak turned down a few notches.

Most of the reds were mediocre to good. If you like California petite sirah, you'd enjoy the Recananti Reserve Petite Sirah-Zin. It has all that big, dark fruit and a little spice. With burgers, it'd be great I think.

But, my favorite of the lot was the Tzora Vineayrds 2006 Givat Hachalukim Cabernet Sauvignon ($23 at Israeli Wine Direct), perhaps because its a bit more cool climate in style than the others. The nose has nice dark berry fruit with is peppery and thyme-basil notes as well.

The flavors closely match the nose, with the pepper-herbs stepping forward maybe a bit more. With medium body and softly gripping tannins that are well integrated rather than angular or abusive to the palate, this is the sort of balanced cabernet that I prefer to the hefty left coast renditions. The finish isn't long, but it's long enough at the price point.

So thanks, Corkdork for forcing me to try some of these wines. I don't really have much reason to explore Kosher wines otherwise or further, but the Tzora has me curious about Israeli wines for sure.

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

Because I have to taste several Kosher wines for WBW #56 tomorrow, today's review is going to be a quick one for a simple, but solid Pindar Vineyards 2007 Peacock Chardonnay ($11).

This chardonnay was ermented in stainless steel and with an unknown amount of oak aging (the website doesn't say), this wine is very fruity on the nose with pineapple and pear aromas backed by hints vanilla and even some citrus blossom.

As I said, simple, but solidly made, the palate is medium-bodied with more pear-pineapple flavors, a bit more vanilla and just a sprinkle of toasty oak in the background. Good, but not great acidity, brings balance and there is an interesting grapefruit note on the average finish.

The tropical, fruity character reminds me a bit of some Aussie chards I've tasted, but there's better acidity here. It's a good example of the kind of wine I'd expect to get if I were to order a "glass of chardonnay" at a bar. Not that I would... but if I did, I'd be happy with this.

It's not distinctive, but for $11, it delivers good fruit and enough acidity.

Producer: Pindar Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long ISland
ABV: 12.8%
Price: $11
Rating:  (2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

A couple of weeks ago, Nena and I had the pleasure of attending a wine dinner at Mirabelle Tavern, featuring the wines of Lenz Winery. It's always a pleasure to see Lenz's winemaker, Eric Fry and he was hustling his way around the dining room, talking with attendees about each of the wines as they were poured.

And, it's always great to sit down to a meal prepared by chef Guy Reuge, one of my favorite Long Island chefs.

For me, the pairing of the night (and this was a night filled with well-considered pairings) was Lenz Winery's 2005 Old Vines Chardonnay with Guy's cream of roasted free-range chicken and almond soup with honey (pictured at right). It was a masterful pairing that brought two things that are rarely my first choice -- cream soup and barrel-fermented chardonnay -- together beautifully.

The other star of the night was the 2001 Estate Merlot, which is tasting great right now. Eric is lucky to be able to get some bottle age on his wines before release. He told me that he doesn't have much of this left, but he's very happy with the 2002 bottling as well.

I get invited to a lot of wine dinners -- a lot of them. Without family nearby and only a couple reliable babysitters, actually being able to attend the dinners is rare. But, that doesn't keep me from reading over the menus and seeing what wines the wineries will be pouring.

A couple of the menus I've seen lately got me to wondering -- how do the wineries see these events? Are they money makers or are they about showcasing your best for the public? I won't pretend to know the mechanics behind the dinners (how much money the winery gets, if any, for them etc.) but it seems that wineries are all over the place when it comes to what wines they choose. Some seem to really want to put their best foot forward, while others almost seem to be pouring off lesser wines that aren't selling elsewhere.

Take the Lenz dinner. No, Eric didn't pour his 2001 Old Vines Merlot ($55), but he was pouring his sparkling wine ($30) and was not pouring his 2004 cabernet sauvignon (which is underwhelming).

On the other hand, I recently saw a menu for a wine dinner that included a non-vintage red blend, an over-oaked chardonnay and totally ignored the winery's best wines.

Perhaps it's just the local wine lover in me, but I want wineries to pour their best (or at least their near-best if finances dictate) at these dinners. Sending out second-rate and second-label wines seems like a waste of time, unless your only goal is to make a little money and clean out some inventory.

I know that several winemakers and winery owners read this blog, so tell me, how do you approach wine dinners? What are your goals? How do you measure the success (or failure) of these events?

By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher

Cabernet franc is a wine that comes in many styles across New York state. One one end of the spectrum, you have winemakers who eschew oak completely. On the other end, you have the winemakers who treat cabernet franc like it's cabernet sauvignon blanc, extending maceration and bludgeoning it with new oak.

I guess what I'm saying is that there isn't a clearly defined New York style cabernet franc yet. Nor is there a distinct style for Long Island, the Finger Lakes, etc. either.

This unoaked rendition, Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars' 2007 T23 Cabernet Franc ($15) makes a strong case for the no-oak style.

The nose is bright with tart cherries blackberries up front and layers of violets, lavender, thyme and subtle earthy spice.

On the palate, it's fresh and light-to-medium bodied with black cherry and blackberry fruit that is slightly juicy. The herb notes carry over, with light tannins and food-friendly acidity giving the wine just enough structure. the finish is medium-short, but features a nice spice note.

For $15, this is the kind of cabernet franc that I'd make my house wine. It should be versatile at the dinner table, and it's a good example of how a wine doesn't need to be big and hulking (or oaked) to be delicious.

Producer: Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.4%
Price: $15
Rating: (3 out of 5 | Recommended) 
(Ratings Guide)

Tom Mansell, the science-loving wine geek behind one of my new favorite blogs, Ithacork, posted a video the other day that I thought you might find interesting.

I've heard before that by pouring a corked wine over plastic wrap, the TCA binds to the plastic and leaves the wine tasting cork taint-free.

Watch his video above and see what he found.

By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Correspondent

After the recent discussion regarding the effects of filtration on wine, I contacted wine importer Neal Rosenthal for his thoughts.

Over the past three decades Rosenthal has been a leading voice calling for unfiltered wines. In his book Reflections of a Wine Merchant, Rosenthal writes often about how he routinely asked winemakers to stop filtering wines. He also wrote a brief defense of Brettanomyces, but he did not connect Brett and filtration in his book. I appreciate his response, and I learned a bit about the evolution of filtration. I'd love to hear from winemakers and industry professionals regarding the filtration techniques that Mr. Rosenthal discusses.

His comments are:

First, let me say that I am neither vigneron nor winemaker. And, I have never had the desire to delve in microscopic depth into the chemistry of wine. So, if I am an expert on this question, a label that I would reject by the way, it is only as a result of my 30+ years of experience buying and selling and drinking wine.

I have a preference for unfiltered wines. That being said, whether a wine is filtered or not is not the factor that determines its quality.  The most important elements in producing wine of quality is to have vines planted in the best places and to do fastidious work in the vineyards. The rest, I contend, is the easy part, although I am sure that those who consider themselves “winemakers” might object to that conclusion.

When I grew up in the wine trade in the mid-to-late 1970s, filtering was de rigueur and was done in a very aggressive manner. In my opinion, many wines had their growth stunted and their character shorn by the filtration process, then done via the filter plaque with tight fibers that truly stripped away important parts of the wine in exchange for clarity of color and security. Because of this, I strenuously objected to the filtering of the wines I was buying. This was particularly true in the case of wines that were aging for a considerable period of time prior to bottling because, in those circumstances, most of the deposit that might have accumulated was easily eliminated with a careful racking of the wine prior to the bottling. This, to me, was the safer and more sane way to treat wine rather than pumping a wine through a filter which, to my way of thinking, produced nothing of value. I never viewed filtration, in other words, as something done to improve the quality of wine. 

There have been dramatic changes in the way wines are handled now. The “kisselguhr” method appears to be less aggressive and, therefore, less harmful than the old filter plaque. Also, those who use the filter plaque now frequently resist using the most compact membrane. On the other hand, the process of filtering, no matter which method is used, forces the wine to undergo a process that I would argue is unnecessary. Why manipulate a wine to gain nothing. So, yes, I remain a devoted fan of unfiltered wines. 

That being said, I have participated in tastings of wines that I have purchased from my growers alongside the same wine that my grower had filtered and have come away on occasion preferring the filtered version. I think this occurred not because the filtering improved the wine but as a result of the fact that the wine bottled for us was drawn from a single barrel and the other cuvée was a blend of multiple barrels. As anyone knows who has been around wine cellars frequently enough, each barrel has its own special characteristics and each plays a role in developing the personality of the wine within. 

The bottom line is that good vineyard work and the harvesting of healthy, ripe grapes are the essential elements in producing top-flight wines and my goal is to protect those wines from anything that might change or diminish them. Filtering seems to me to be, in most instances, unnecessary and, perhaps worse, deleterious.

Regards,

Neal
Neal I. Rosenthal
Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd.

On my recent trip to Seneca Lake, one of the wineries that surprised me the most was Lakewood Vineyards. Winemaker Chris Stamp is making some classic, well-priced riesling, doing some interesting things with New York oak in his chardonnay and cabernet franc programs and even impressed with some of the hybrid blends. This week, we pose our Q&A questions to Chris:

What (and where) was the first bottle of wine you remember drinking?
First, you should know that although I grew up on a grape farm, my parents rarely had wine, or any alcoholic beverages around the house. Not because they were against it, but because back in those days, being grape growers for Taylor Wine Company didn't necessarily translate into knowledge about wine other than it came from the bins of fruit that you delivered to the wine factory.

There really wasn't much of a wine culture in this area back then. Today you could walk into any restaurant in Watkins Glen and find 12 people who are well read in matters of wine. Back then you'd be hard pressed to find a dozen in the whole town.

This fact makes it easier for me to remember my first taste of wine. It wasn't a stunning Bordeaux from a storied vintage, but a small glass of "Sparkling Burgundy," which was, I believe a charmat process, Concord-based bubbly. But at the ripe old age of somewhere around 10, I recall it tasted really good.

What event/bottle/etc made you decide that you wanted to be in the wine industry?
My fascination with wine making began in my early teens while visiting a neighbor. This neighbor was an off-the-boat Yugoslavian who loved to make wine. Lots of wine. In fact his basement probably had 1000 gals of new wine at any one time. I remember being intrigued by all the barrels, the bubblers, the carboys and probably most of all, the aromas. I would help him on occasion. At the time I thought "what a neat hobby". It was years later that it occurred to me that I could make a profession out of it.

Which of your current wines is your favorite and why?
This is a question I often get if I spend any time in the tasting room. My answer is always in the form of a question: Which of your kids is your favorite?

Fact is, it has more to do with the occasion, what I'm having for dinner, and the weather. I confess, I drink more of the drier wines, but if the company wants a sweeter wine, then that's my favorite that night.

What has surprised you most about being a member of the Finger Lakes wine community?
The growth of the industry. I remember when making 12,000 gallons qualified you as a large winery. We now make over 80,000 gallon/yr. And instead of being one of a couple dozen wineries, we're one of well over 100. Your perspectives sure change.

I'm also impressed at how well everyone still works together. If your neighbor needs something, you help if you can. Despite the growth it still feels like a small community. I like that.

Other than your own wines, what wine/beer/liquor most often fills your glass?
I rarely drink liquor, but I have a serious weakness for German-style Hefe Weizen. It might even be an addiction.

In the winter I drink more reds from all over the world, but when it warms up outside, it's impossible to beat a Finger Lakes Riesling. Every winery here makes a riesling and almost all of them are excellent. But the real sleepers of the Finger Lakes are the Gewurztraminers. This is a variety that we can produce as well as anyone. Your chances of finding Gewurztraminer in my glass at any particular moment are pretty good.

Is there a 'classic' wine or wine and food pairing that you just can't make yourself enjoy? Yes. Independently I love dry red wine and chocolate. Together, they are an abomination. What really worries me is that some poor soul is going to taste these two together and really believe that this is synergy. What a travesty. Nothing in the pairing works. Whoever proffered this notion show be condemned!

Wine enjoyment is about more than just the wine itself. Describe the combination of wine, locations, food, company, etc. that would make (or has made) for the ultimate wine-drinking experience.
Probably 8 of my top ten wine experiences has taken place right in my own dining room. My wife and I both like to cook, and we have an embarrassingly large wine cellar.

In the winter it might be porterhouse steak with avocado sauce paired with cabernet franc (this one is awesome!) served in the dining room with the fireplace roaring in the background. Or in the summer, garden-fresh grilled vegetables with a crisp dry riesling on my front deck over looking the lake as the sun fades away.

The key is nobody has to be anywhere else that night. There is the feeling that this is what we work for, these moments at the end of the day, when we can all put away our type A side and relax and enjoy the fruits of our labors.